POWER: Input power indicator light.
M-D: When power on, M-D indicator lights on for 3-5 seconds, then lights off. The M-D doesn’t light continuously when treadmill in use. If continue lightening, it means MOS(FET2,FET1) broken, so replace controller board.
LIMIT: If over currency or resistance force too big, LIMIT lights on, and machine stops automatically.
S-D: S-D light on will cause machine stop. Can turn on the input power and restart treadmill. If PCB S-D lights on continue, it means PCB short circuit.
UP: Incline up light. If doesn't light, function don't work.
DOWM: Incline down light. If doesn't light, function don't work.
PWM: PWM signal from meter (console) to PCB, the PWM lights when speed up. If this light is on but machine does not work, check motor wire or change PCB
Treadmill repair tips and spare parts supply. Our shop is specialized in treadmills and stationary bikes' spare parts, such as treadmill belts, drive belts, treadmill motors and controllers. For any information please visit our treadmill parts shop or write to us at treadmillparts@partsfortreadmill.com
Wednesday, 30 April 2014
how to adjust treadmill belt tension
speed sensor for treadmill | Error E1, Error E2 on Treadmills and bikes
How does a speed sensor works and what is the effect of its location on bikes
As you exercise on a fitness trainer, you set the drive mechanism in motion by pedaling. This pedaling sets a drive pulley in motion and this motions drives a flywheel by the help of a drive belt. Mostly the drive pulley is much bigger as the pulley on the flywheel (the flywheel is the driven wheel)
This difference is diameter can also be seen as a gear and thus will the flywheel spin much faster compared to the rotation speed of the drive pulley. This gives a comfortable feeling as the flywheel helps you keeping the machine in motion with the help of the rotating mass.
Example:
If the drive pulley is 32 cm in diameter and the pulley on the flywheel only 4 cm in diameter
Than the gear will be 1:8
This because 32/ 4 = 8
In this example the flywheel will rotate 8 times in each drive pulley revolution.
As we want to know the RPM (Rotations Per Minute) while we pedal we need to put our speed sensor in place where the motion is. You can image by the example shown above that it is a huge difference in where to put the magnet. Do we want one or 8 revolution counts for each rotation the drive pulley makes. Thus do you measure the real motions or the high speed generated motion of the flywheel.
Magnet on the drive pulley:
This is the most simple way of measuring, and is accurate enough for permanent magnet break systems. Each sensor pulse is one revolution and as long as the sensor is not idle for more than 3 seconds there is no problem. ( 60 seconds / 3 seconds = 20 RPM. as a minimum to keep on working )
The break level does not need the speed to adjust the tension level. It is adjusted only on the users behalf or in a program* when a certain time or distance has been achieved. ( * Servo systems only )
When the machine is an Ergo meter* and can function in Watt controlled mode than it does need the speed sensor but only with a time interval of 3 seconds.
Magnet on the flywheel:
This is a high speed measurement in where the trainer do need the sensor to make the machine operate. Mostly this is used in combination with a EMS ( Electronic Break System ). An EMS is a combination of induction magnet coil and a control board.
In this way of measurement the reaction time really as it should process 8 times the amount of signals in the same time. This is needed to make the display react fast enough to make the training feel smooth.
Correct speed sensor location for bikes
In every high speed magnetic speed sensor system the sensor is not allowed to be positioned in a 90° angle. Best position would be a 180° or a 80° position. This would avoid the sensor from being charged in static way. The reason for this is, that the sensor will not be triggered with full magnet power, and is therefore easier to release the inner sensor switch. Best distance between speed sensor and magnet should be set between 3 and 5 mm.
the problem you are facing before you report an error. Proceed as below.
Cut of the front sensor housing wall from the lower sensor cover. Lower sensor cover is indicated
with a B in the first picture.
After modifying the sensor housing you can re-assemble the sensor again. And Check if this solved
your speed sensor readout problem.
Need a new speed sensor? Buy it here: speed sensor for treadmills / speed sensor for bikes
As you exercise on a fitness trainer, you set the drive mechanism in motion by pedaling. This pedaling sets a drive pulley in motion and this motions drives a flywheel by the help of a drive belt. Mostly the drive pulley is much bigger as the pulley on the flywheel (the flywheel is the driven wheel)
This difference is diameter can also be seen as a gear and thus will the flywheel spin much faster compared to the rotation speed of the drive pulley. This gives a comfortable feeling as the flywheel helps you keeping the machine in motion with the help of the rotating mass.
Example:
If the drive pulley is 32 cm in diameter and the pulley on the flywheel only 4 cm in diameter
Than the gear will be 1:8
This because 32/ 4 = 8
In this example the flywheel will rotate 8 times in each drive pulley revolution.
As we want to know the RPM (Rotations Per Minute) while we pedal we need to put our speed sensor in place where the motion is. You can image by the example shown above that it is a huge difference in where to put the magnet. Do we want one or 8 revolution counts for each rotation the drive pulley makes. Thus do you measure the real motions or the high speed generated motion of the flywheel.
Magnet on the drive pulley:
This is the most simple way of measuring, and is accurate enough for permanent magnet break systems. Each sensor pulse is one revolution and as long as the sensor is not idle for more than 3 seconds there is no problem. ( 60 seconds / 3 seconds = 20 RPM. as a minimum to keep on working )
The break level does not need the speed to adjust the tension level. It is adjusted only on the users behalf or in a program* when a certain time or distance has been achieved. ( * Servo systems only )
When the machine is an Ergo meter* and can function in Watt controlled mode than it does need the speed sensor but only with a time interval of 3 seconds.
Magnet on the flywheel:
This is a high speed measurement in where the trainer do need the sensor to make the machine operate. Mostly this is used in combination with a EMS ( Electronic Break System ). An EMS is a combination of induction magnet coil and a control board.
In this way of measurement the reaction time really as it should process 8 times the amount of signals in the same time. This is needed to make the display react fast enough to make the training feel smooth.
Correct speed sensor location for bikes
In every high speed magnetic speed sensor system the sensor is not allowed to be positioned in a 90° angle. Best position would be a 180° or a 80° position. This would avoid the sensor from being charged in static way. The reason for this is, that the sensor will not be triggered with full magnet power, and is therefore easier to release the inner sensor switch. Best distance between speed sensor and magnet should be set between 3 and 5 mm.
Correct speed sensor location on treadmill to avoid E1 and E2 errors
The standard distance between the active sensor and the magnet should be as less as possible (2-3 mm).
Some sensor is provided with double sensor housing. Therefore the active sensor print comes to far from the front roller pulley magnet.
You can easily cut of a part of the sensor housing without creating an open environment for the
sensor electronics. Please try to modify the sensor housing to make sure this is not the problem for the problem you are facing before you report an error. Proceed as below.
Cut of the front sensor housing wall from the lower sensor cover. Lower sensor cover is indicated
with a B in the first picture.
After modifying the sensor housing you can re-assemble the sensor again. And Check if this solved
your speed sensor readout problem.
Need a new speed sensor? Buy it here: speed sensor for treadmills / speed sensor for bikes
Cross trainer servicing
Please find enclosed a quick trouble shooting guide for Crosstrainers.
• Check carefully to ensure that all the components for assembly are used, they are in the correct order and securely tightened. If necessary use your own hand tools.
• Apply a thin film of light grease or petroleum jelly to each moving joint before assembly (e.g. Vaseline) do not use multi-purpose oils (e.g. 3-IN-ONE or WD- 40).
• Front Drive only. Do not fully tighten the bolts for the roller rails, rear support or upright post before tightening them; rotate the pedals and moving handlebars a few times by hand in order to get them aligned with the rails.
2. Lower Swing Arm to foot tube connection point
Remove covers if necessary. Unscrew bolt/axle and remove. Apply a film of grease to the bolt/axle that fits through the swing arm joint. Re-tighten the bolt/axle. Ensure that bolts and washer are correctly assembled.
3. Foot tube to rotating drum connection
Remove covers if necessary. Unscrew the securing bolt. Remove washers and tubular spacer. Push grease into the chamber around the exposed axle. Refit the components (ensure in correct order) and tighten securely.
Front Rear Driven Cross Trainers only
Lift the rollers wheels up and away from the roller rails. Remove any dust or dirt from
the area. Clean the rails using a silicon based polish such (e.g. Mr Sheen).
Need replacement parts?
Crosstrainer Assembly Tips
• Check carefully to ensure that all the components for assembly are used, they are in the correct order and securely tightened. If necessary use your own hand tools.
• Apply a thin film of light grease or petroleum jelly to each moving joint before assembly (e.g. Vaseline) do not use multi-purpose oils (e.g. 3-IN-ONE or WD- 40).
• Front Drive only. Do not fully tighten the bolts for the roller rails, rear support or upright post before tightening them; rotate the pedals and moving handlebars a few times by hand in order to get them aligned with the rails.
Maintenance
Due to the many moving parts within a Cross Trainer reduce performance and noise can arise during the life of the product. These do not always indicate a component failure but may mean indicate that maintenance is required. The following schedule should be carried out periodically to maintain the product’s performance or if you experience any unusual noises or a reduction in performance.
Refer to the assembly instructions for your product for precise details on how to disassemble the moving parts so access can be made for maintenance. Moving joints and pivots points need to be checked to ensure that they are correctly tightened, free moving and lubricated.
We recommend that a light grease or petroleum jelly is used (e.g. Vaseline) do not use multi-purpose oils (e.g. 3-IN-ONE or WD-40).
1. Upper Swing Arm pivot
If necessary remove the covers. Unscrew the swing arm bolts which secure the arms to the swing arm axle. The swing arms can be slid apart to expose the axle. Apply a film of grease to the axle. Re-tighten the bolts securely.
If there is sideways play or excessive noise within the swing arm joint then it may require the fitting application of thin spacers as shown in the diagram below.
Refer to the assembly instructions for your product for precise details on how to disassemble the moving parts so access can be made for maintenance. Moving joints and pivots points need to be checked to ensure that they are correctly tightened, free moving and lubricated.
We recommend that a light grease or petroleum jelly is used (e.g. Vaseline) do not use multi-purpose oils (e.g. 3-IN-ONE or WD-40).
1. Upper Swing Arm pivot
If necessary remove the covers. Unscrew the swing arm bolts which secure the arms to the swing arm axle. The swing arms can be slid apart to expose the axle. Apply a film of grease to the axle. Re-tighten the bolts securely.
If there is sideways play or excessive noise within the swing arm joint then it may require the fitting application of thin spacers as shown in the diagram below.
Remove covers if necessary. Unscrew bolt/axle and remove. Apply a film of grease to the bolt/axle that fits through the swing arm joint. Re-tighten the bolt/axle. Ensure that bolts and washer are correctly assembled.
3. Foot tube to rotating drum connection
Remove covers if necessary. Unscrew the securing bolt. Remove washers and tubular spacer. Push grease into the chamber around the exposed axle. Refit the components (ensure in correct order) and tighten securely.
Front Rear Driven Cross Trainers only
Lift the rollers wheels up and away from the roller rails. Remove any dust or dirt from
the area. Clean the rails using a silicon based polish such (e.g. Mr Sheen).
Need replacement parts?
-
- Cross trainers and Stationary Bike Pedals, cranks, axles
- Speed sensor for elliptical bikes and cross trainers
- Exercise bike, cross trainers drive belt
- Synchro belts and timing belts for old bikes and cross trainers
- Computer / Display for ellipticals and cross trainers
- Saddles, Knobs, Rollers
- Tension controllers, brakes, felt brakes
treadmills repair | When and how to change the battery in the Tunturi Chest belt sender.
When to change the battery:
If the receiver (monitor display) does not give a steady measurement of the heart rate and you are sure you wear the belt in a proper way. (please check the user manual on how to use the chest belt) you might need to change the battery of the chest belt.
If normally used, the battery should last for 2 up to 4 years. Even if you don’t use the chest belt you need to change the battery after a couple of years, there the chest belt does not have an on/ off switch.
Testing the Tunturi chest belt
You can test the chest belt by activating the sensor zones off the chest belt. ( see
picture 1 for the sensor zone on the belt )
Put one off your thumbs on the sensor zone and hold. Click the second zone off the belt with your other thumb in the rhythm of a heartbeat. ( marked in red in picture 2 ) You should be able to hear the activation of your thumb clicking in the sending area ( marked in yellow in picture two ) of the belt by listening carefully ( you might need to put this part nearby your ear to be able to hear it. )
If you do not hear a sound, you can be sure that the battery is low or empty. In this case you need to replace the battery. If you do hear a sound you must be able to generate a heartbeat on your receiver ( trainers monitor ). You start nearby the monitor to see if the signal is picked up. From a picked up signal you can go further and further away from the receiver to see how far the reach is.
This should be at least 1.5 meter. If this is less, you also need to change the battery because the power ran low.
How to change the battery on the Tunturi chest belt.
The battery housing can easily be opened with a coin ( see picture 3 ) and turning this counter clockwise. This is also shown on the battery house cover ( see picture 4 )
The tension of the battery contact poles will push the battery housing locking disk upwards. Take the locking disk off gentle and check the metal contact poles.
They should be without corrosion and clean. If not you might need to clean this gentle with a sandpaper. Contact poles shown in picture 6 marked in red.
If the receiver (monitor display) does not give a steady measurement of the heart rate and you are sure you wear the belt in a proper way. (please check the user manual on how to use the chest belt) you might need to change the battery of the chest belt.
If normally used, the battery should last for 2 up to 4 years. Even if you don’t use the chest belt you need to change the battery after a couple of years, there the chest belt does not have an on/ off switch.
Testing the Tunturi chest belt
You can test the chest belt by activating the sensor zones off the chest belt. ( see
picture 1 for the sensor zone on the belt )
Put one off your thumbs on the sensor zone and hold. Click the second zone off the belt with your other thumb in the rhythm of a heartbeat. ( marked in red in picture 2 ) You should be able to hear the activation of your thumb clicking in the sending area ( marked in yellow in picture two ) of the belt by listening carefully ( you might need to put this part nearby your ear to be able to hear it. )
If you do not hear a sound, you can be sure that the battery is low or empty. In this case you need to replace the battery. If you do hear a sound you must be able to generate a heartbeat on your receiver ( trainers monitor ). You start nearby the monitor to see if the signal is picked up. From a picked up signal you can go further and further away from the receiver to see how far the reach is.
This should be at least 1.5 meter. If this is less, you also need to change the battery because the power ran low.
How to change the battery on the Tunturi chest belt.
The battery housing can easily be opened with a coin ( see picture 3 ) and turning this counter clockwise. This is also shown on the battery house cover ( see picture 4 )
The tension of the battery contact poles will push the battery housing locking disk upwards. Take the locking disk off gentle and check the metal contact poles.
They should be without corrosion and clean. If not you might need to clean this gentle with a sandpaper. Contact poles shown in picture 6 marked in red.
In picture 5 you can see how the battery comes out of the battery housing. Make sure you put the new battery in the battery housing the same way. In picture 7 is shown how the battery should be placed in the Tunturi chest belt. Beware, it is recommendable to not touch the new battery with your fingers, there the battery might be out of power instantly after touching it with your hands. Make sure you use a CR2032 3 Volt cell battery.
This information is also shown on the cover disk of the battery housing. ( See picture 8 )
If you successfully replaced the battery you can check again if you can hear the
sender working like described in this document.
If this didn't fix your problem, buy replacement chestbelts on our eShop
Tuesday, 29 April 2014
Pulse Power System | Lake Forest | Treadmill controller Johnson
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| Pulse Power System treadmill controller - discontinued |
Quality USA Pulse Power System controllers available on request. Contact us for information,
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| Pulse Treadmill controller, available |
Monday, 28 April 2014
Quantum treadmill controller boards | Endex DCMD67, Endex DCMD75, Endex DCMD76 replacement treadmill boards
Starting from 2007, manufacture of controller boards Endex DCMD67, Endex DCMD75, Endex DCMD76 has been discontinued for new controllers with better performance.
Buy on our eshop
DCMD57 replacement of DCMD67
DCMD66 replacement of DCMD76
DCMD65 replacement of DCMD75
Additional protection circuit has been added to lower board design to eliminate voltage peaks that
potentially can damage power electronics supplying AC voltage to lift motor. Failure on power supply
components for lift motor (TRIAC) generates error messages E6 or E7 depending on the component
failure mode.
Buy on our eshop
DCMD57 replacement of DCMD67
DCMD66 replacement of DCMD76
DCMD65 replacement of DCMD75
Additional protection circuit has been added to lower board design to eliminate voltage peaks that
potentially can damage power electronics supplying AC voltage to lift motor. Failure on power supply
components for lift motor (TRIAC) generates error messages E6 or E7 depending on the component
failure mode.
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