Tuesday, 31 October 2017

How to fix a Treadmill: Practical advice for DIY repairs

Anyone who has a treadmill will have to repair or fix it sooner or later. You may be having trouble with the wear-resistant platform, but it's nothing serious. You can easily learn how to adjust a treadmill by yourself.
Fixing a treadmill, most common things to do:
Check the power supply. Make sure your treadmill is getting proper power supply. Problems with the other home appliances, the sockets, or the use of extension or adapters may diminish the effectiveness of your treadmill, or even damage the electronic control card.
For safety reasons, be sure to turn off power before performing the following steps.
Clean the treadmill. Make sure that there is no dirt or any other accumulation on the treadmill belt, in the motor housing, or the bottom of the rollers. Dirt can cause friction of the belt and will slow down or cause problems during walking and running on the treadmill. When the treadmill is clean, you can turn on the power and check whether the dirt removal has resolved the problem. Do not forget to clean the deck and the belt with alcohol, removing all dirt and lubricant residues and using the new 100% silicone lubricant on the table.
Examine the speed sensor. Check the speed sensor, you can accumulate dust that annoys speed reading, causing various faults during use. Anything that may have accumulated on or around the speed sensor must be removed. A tapering motion or the appearance of an error (E1, E2) a few seconds after the belt is started may be attributed to the sensor covered by dirty, or defective.
Replace the belt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions or those on our blog to remove the motor cover. Loosen the back of the belt with the screwdriver or the keys. Mark the position of the front roller so that the new belt can easily be re-aligned. Pull the belt from the treadmill deck, then put the new belt on the treadmill. Make sure you buy a suitable belt for the treadmill and ensure its good quality. Do not strain too much. Follow the directions of the manufacturer’s booklet or those on our blog.
If you smell burning, clean everything, adjust the belt (reducing the tension as low as possible) and lubricate the deck. If, after doing so, there is still a burning odor, unplug the treadmill and stop using it until the problem is solved. The motor is overheating, causing the burning smell. It may be that the belt is misaligned or replaced or the deck is chipped. Do not continue training with the risk of causing expensive damage to the motor and / or the treadmill control board.
Replace the motor / board. After identifying the failures, this could be the only solution. Follow the step-by-step manual or the directions on our blog. Put all the small parts of your treadmill in a container, so you cannot lose them and you can reassemble all the pieces more easily. This may not be within the reach of everyone. If you are in doubt, contact a qualified technician and never carry out operations without taking appropriate electrical precautions.
After any intervention you should thoroughly test the smooth operation of the treadmill, first without anyone, up to max. speed, then with a test session. During testing, constantly monitor motor and board temperature, if it rises, it may indicate some mounting error or need of further service.
Never use the treadmill with children, people with disabilities or the elderly as long as you are not sure of the perfect working order of the machine. http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/

Sunday, 29 October 2017

How does a DC treadmill motor work? How to avoid treadmill problems?

To avoid problems, it is important to
  • purchase treadmills with motors of high quality and appropriate dimensions,
  • regularly maintain them
  • reduce the coefficient of friction between the belt and deck as much as possible, replacing the belt at regular intervals.
Let's see why these factors are so important
How does the DC treadmill motor work? It is important to have knowledge of the basics so you can understand why it is important to test the treadmill motor properly.
The following applies to most domestic treadmills and some commercial treadmill motors. It does not apply to AC motors, which are mostly used in new commercial treadmills (treadmills for fitness centers and wellness centers).
Permanent magnets (PMDCs) or DC motors are built using fixed magnets mounted around the inside of the chassis. Between the magnets, the center of the engine (inductor) is made by
  • a bearing shaft,
  • a wrap (winding) which consists of wires, insulated from each other by an insulating resin,
  • insulating material and
  • metal blades (battery).
The shaft connects the motor to the running belt of the treadmill via a drive pulley and a transmission belt. The motor provides energy to start the treadmill when you press the start button. But how does the motor convert electrical energy into motion?
Mounted on the shaft inside the engine there is a core of iron (rotor) and around it there is a wrap of copper wires known as windings or coil. An electric current is passed through the windings of the motor.
The current comes from a motor control board that is connected to the motor via two brushes. The engine controller's job is to change the AC (alternating, usually 220/240) voltage into the DC and adjust the voltage.
The motor would not work (indeed it would be damaged) if it was directly connected to the wall outlet. The motor control card also allows you to change the motor speed by adjusting the voltage to the motor according to the speed set on the treadmill console.
When the electric current passes through the windings inside the magnetic field (created by permanent magnets), the shaft rotates to bring the magnetic balance back to the engine rotation. The rotational power of the motor depends on the force of the magnetic field created by the permanent magnets and the amount of current which travels through the copper windings. Therefore, the bigger the diameter of the motor is the better it is. Because the magnetic field of the permanent magnets is greater and the power at the same current is greater.
In the motor, it is important to couple the concept as it is necessary to make sure that you have a sufficient torque so that the treadmill moves smoothly when you are on it. The motor torque is normally indicated in Watt or Horse Power (HP).
You can increase the torque by increasing the magnetic field of permanent magnets (i.e. using a larger motor) or by increasing the current flowing through the windings. In practice, it is not possible to increase the magnetism of permanent magnets (they are permanent and cannot be changed). So you need to increase the current through windings to get more torque.
The amount of current that can pass through copper wires is limited by the size of the wires and the capacity of the motor control board (MCB) that provides electrical current. If you try to pass too much current you can burn copper windings, which will cause them to blend, or overburden, destroying them.
Small electric dissipation can go unnoticed in a bench test or running the motor with a car battery, but this can cause problems when the engine is connected to the control board and subject to high voltage. http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/

Friday, 27 October 2017

Apply the lubricant to the treadmill

CAUTION: Disconnect the power cord before starting. If the power cord is plugged into an electrical outlet, it can cause serious injury.
Read the instructions completely before starting.
1. Remove the security key and disconnect the power cord.
2. Grasp the right and left edge of the belt and pull towards the rear roller until the seam of the belt is above the rear roller. It may be necessary to pull several times if sewing is not visible at first. Be careful not to squeeze the fingers between the belt and the rear roller.
3. If you have a liquid lubricant (often supplied with the new treadmill), cut the tip of the lubricant tube. Raise a belt edge and apply 1/4 of the pipe to the platform, spreading it in zigzag shape. Try to apply the lubricant to the center of the platform and proceed to a belt edge. Do not apply the treadmill lubricant entirely to the edge of the belt. Leave 3 or 4 inches along the edge of the belt without lubrication. Raise the belt edge on the other side and apply the lubricant in the same way. It is important not to over-lubricate and lubricate the centre of the board / deck. If you have a spray lubricant, you can spray it to the center of the deck simply by lifting one of the two belt edges.
4. Grasp the right and left edge of the belt and pull towards the rear roll as described in Step 2. Do this until the belt sewing over the front roller is visible. In this way, the lubricant has spread evenly on your deck.
5. Connect the treadmill and insert the safety key. Set the treadmill speed to 4/5 km / h and walk on it for a few minutes before starting your training. http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/

Wednesday, 25 October 2017

When do you know that the treadmill belt needs replacement?

Often when observing the walking belt we stop to check if the belt is ok. We look at the side edges, we see that they look normal, we feel that the belt is in a good condition, the belt is in the right place. However, even in this situation the belt might still need to be replaced.
The lack of visible external signals that the belt has to be replaced, it is not a full insurance that all is fine. The belts are more likely to have problems on the bottom (white texture) than on the upper black side. On the texture side any problem will result in increased treadmill electrical consumption (which in a short time make electricity much more expensive than you would have spent on a new belt) and may bring to failure of expensive components such as controller and motor.
The following picture, from the technical service manual of a well-known European manufacturer of fitness and medical equipment, shows that when you see the black cloth appear on the underlying ribbon, this is to be replaced, although the outer rubber still looks good and even if the edges (where you do not walk) the belt appears still white.
To buy high-quality belts with low friction visit this link: http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/index.php/parts-for-treadmill/belt-for-treadmill/

Tuesday, 24 October 2017

MC-2000E treadmill Motor Controller LEDs troubleshooting

The MC-2000E motor controller has four LEDs that can be used to help troubleshoot electrical problems with this treadmill. Each LED, and its meaning, will be described:
15V- This LED indicates the controller is outputting 15 VDC needed by the controller Iogic circuit. If this LED does not light when voltage is applied, replace the controller.
SPD SIG- Indicates a speed control signal is being received from the console. The LED will flicker as the speed signal is received. If this LED does not light when speed is set above 0.0 MPH, but 15V does, it indicates a problem with the speed wires or console wires
GATE- Indicates that the controller is attempting to respond to an incoming speed signal. If this light is out, no voltage will be sent to the motor. This LED will vary in brightness depending on the speed setting. If this LED does not light when the safety key is inserted and SPD SIG is lit, the controller will need to be replaced.
HV BUSS- This LED indicates the capacitor on the controller is charged and is sending voltage to the drive motor. It will only light when both the SPD SIG and GATE LEDs are lit. http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/

Euro 30i treadmill Power Board LEDs troubleshooting

The Euro 30i power board has four troubleshooting LEDs to assist the technician when servicing the treadmill. Not all LEDs are mounted on some power boards. The meaning of each of these LEDs is as follows:
240V- This LED lights to indicate the power board is receiving 220-240 VAC. It will light when the treadmill is plugged in and the main on/off switch where the power cord enters the treadmill is turned on.
9VDC- This LED lights to indicate the power board is generating the 8-12 VDC necessary to power the console. It must always light when the 240 VAC LED is lit.
PWM- This LED monitors the speed control signal being sent from the console. This signal passes through the power board on its way to the motor controller. The LED will begin to flicker when treadmill speed is set above 0.0 KPH and turn off when the treadmill is stopped.
TACH- This LED monitors the speed sensor signal to the console. It will flicker as the treadmill is running. When the treadmill is at rest, the LED may remain lit or dim. http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/

Icon treadmill console Calibration Mode (Proform 790CD and other models)

This console has a calibration mode to assist the technician in troubleshooting. To enter this mode, press and hold the Stop and Speed + buttons while inserting the safety key. There are five levels in this mode. Move from one level to the next by pressing the Stop button. Exit this mode at any time by removing the safety key.
Level 1- This level displays how the console has been configured to operate. It also displays the numerical value of each button as it is pressed.
TIME (Left 1/2)- Minimum PWM speed signal '6'
TIME (Right 1/2)- Button Test Values
SPEED- Maximum Speed '19' ('12')
CALS- Roller size '1.9'
DISTANCE- Console software code version
Level 2-
This level is used to calibrate the incline and speed of the treadmill. To calibrate incline, press both Incline buttons. The treadmill will calibrate itself. To calibrate speed, press and hold the Speed + button until the Distance window displays an 85% speed signal. Adjust the MAX SPD pot / trimmer on the controller until the speed window displays 19.0 (12.0). Press Speed - and allow the treadmill to come to a complete stop.
TIME- Internal Test. FP=pass, FF=fail, NC=not configured, NR=not released
SPEED- Actual speed of the treadmill.
CALS- Blinking '1' with hand pulse signal, '2' with chest pulse signal.
DISTANCE- Current PWM speed signal (%) ‘0-85’
Level 3-
This level lights each LED on the console in order. The Speed buttons control the speed of the lighting pattern. Incline + toggles all LED's on and off. Incline - restarts the lighting pattern.
Level 4-
This level displays the total Time and Distance of the treadmill. It also shows the current units of measurement. TIME- Total time in hours
SPEED- Units: 'E'=English, 'rn'=metric
CALS-'d' if Demo mode turned on, else blank
DISTANCE- Total distance in miles
Level 5- Functional Test.
This level allows the treadmill to be tested while still in calibration mode. The treadmill will run normally alter the Start button is pressed, but the displays will show different information.
TIME- Elapsed Time
SPEED- Speed the treadmill is set to run
DIST.- Current PWM speed control signal output '0-85'
CALS- Actual speed the treadmill is running.
Units of Measurement
The units of measurement can be changed between English and Metric in the User Information Mode. Enter this mode by pressing down the Stop button while inserting the safety key. The Speed window will display either E for English or m for metric units of measurement. Toggle between the two settings by pressing the Speed + button.
Demo Mode
The console has a demo built into its software. The demo mode loops the console display through a lighting routine when the treadmill is plugged in, but the key is not inserted. All button presses are disabled. To disable this mode, enter the User Information mode by pressing down the Stop button while inserting the key. The Calories window will display a ‘d’ if demo mode is active. Press the Speed - button to toggle the mode on and off.
Error Code
This console features an Error Code that appears when the console fails a self-test.
E6- Checksum Error. This error indicates the console has failed an internal test. Unplug the treadmill for 30 seconds and try again. If it reappears, replace the console. http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/

Monday, 23 October 2017

What is a safety key for the treadmill?

The safety key for treadmills is an essential component for safety that the overwhelming majority of modern motorized treadmills use. It works similarly to the safety key on a water bike or other equipment where the user can fall. The key allows the treadmill to operate, normally one end is connected to the tool, the other is connected to the user. If the key is unplugged, the treadmill detects that there may have been an accident and activates the treadmill safety function that immediately stops the belt.
Different brands of treadmills require a specific size and shape of the key, although the key basic function is the same. Most treadmill keys stick to the user's clothing, but some may have a bracelet that can be worn on the wrist. The treadmill requires constant contact with the key to continue working and if the key is removed, the treadmill immediately stops the movement and shuts off to avoid hurting the user if he stumbled and fell off the belt. Also, it may be useful to remove the key if there are children who could inadvertently start the treadmill and put themselves in danger. The way the key connects to the treadmill may vary depending on the brand and model. Some have the shape of a small thin card that is inserted into a slit on the treadmill and by simply pressing the "power" or "start" button, turns on the treadmill and allows the belt to start.
Other brands and models use a magnetic key, which is easier to pull off the magnetic pad on the treadmill interface and is more sensitive to movements, including accidental falls, which pull the cable to the side. With this type it is easier to accidentally touch the pad magnet by interrupting the workout, but the user is more protected from possible injuries if he falls to the side of the treadmill. It is also less likely that it breaks down and needs to be replaced less frequently than the classic type.
Unfortunately, many users do not feel the need to wear the treadmill key because they find it uncomfortable to tie around the wrist, hang it in a pocket or sleeve. But if the user falls without wearing it, there will be no signal to stop the engine of the treadmill, and the belt will continue to move. This can be dangerous if a foot, other parts of the body, or a piece of clothing are stuck in the running belt or under the appliance. In addition, stumbling and falling when the belt moves at high speeds can cause the user to fall backwards by colliding with a wall or anything behind the treadmill.
In case you lost your safety key you can buy a replacement on our website: http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/index.php/parts-for-treadmill/treadmill-safety-key/

Saturday, 21 October 2017

Recommended use time for a treadmill: "Preventing is the best cure"

Recently, on some treadmills the maximum continuous use time and the minimum time needed to cool down the internal components of the treadmill are shown on the label.
See, for example, the label of this Weslo treadmill indicates an hour of use and a pause time.
Unfortunately, most of the treadmills do not give these indications. In addition, there may be a significant difference due to:

the weight of the person using the tool (the higher the weight, the greater the heat generated and the need for pauses),
the type of use, i.e racing or walking (less than 5 km / h), where - contrary to common sense - the treadmill is heated and damages more in the walk (for technical reasons related to the motor control technology)

the conditions of the transmission elements (rollers, strap and belt). In this regard, please note that a non-lubricated, too lubricated or old belt can lead to a double current consumption compared to a new low-friction type belt (buy low friction belts on the treadmill spare parts site: http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/index.php/parts-for-treadmill/belt-for-treadmill/

A much more precise and simple / economical solution to avoid damage to the treadmill is to use a thermometer.

Just place the sensor on the motor, fix it with a clamp, and you can attach the small display to the treadmill uprights so that you can check the temperature at any time. When this approaches 50 °C it is necessary to stop training to cool down the motor. In fact, most engines start a degradation process when the internal temperature exceeds 100/120 °C. In fact, they start to dissolve parts of isolation, and if you repeat this situation many times or continue for a long time you may damage your motor very seriously.
Muddy treadmill motor
Considering that the outside temperature is about half of the inside, it is understandable that under such conditions (ext. temperature over 45°C) the motor may be damaged.
You will notice that when the training was interrupted, the motor temperature could rise for a few minutes instead of going down. This is a natural effect because heat slowly passes from the internal parts of the motor to the outer parts, thus increasing the temperature on the outer surface.
In practice, with a few euro investment you can avoid having to replace the motor.

Thursday, 19 October 2017

Treadmill, the incline calibration- Mod. Nordic Track 1750

How to behave when the following error message appears on your treadmill "the incline calibration is not correct: Value Trans Max = 0" and how to perform a proper calibration of the treadmill inclination.
The most common problem for tilt motors is that of jammed gears, and this can be solved by turning the motor manually by tilting it down by rotating the screw.
You do not have to completely remove the engine to do this. If the engine does not move sufficiently well there may be some broken gears, which means that you need to replace the engine.
Removing the engine is not complicated. Make sure that the treadmill is off and that it has been disconnected for a significant period of time to avoid electric shocks. Remove the cover.
You will need to disconnect the wires indicated by the yellow arrows. Do not forget to unplug the engine slope sensor indicated by the yellow arrows in the next photo. Only the red part and the black part of the connector must remain connected.
After disconnecting these wires, you can disconnect the two sliding clamp bolts. These can be difficult to reach in the narrow space of the treadmill.
First remove the lower bolt on the left. Once these are removed, the treadmill will swing down for a lower portion, then lift the engine so it does not bump the controller.
Installation is the opposite of removal. Once installed, click the info button and then the settings to calibrate the slope.
There may be a third cause when the message "Trans Max Value = 0 error" appears. An interruption in the connection between the gradient engine sensor and the top console may occur. The engine inclination sensor connector on the control board may have loosened or the pins may have broken or pinched. Therefore, check cabling properly.
The engine used in this repair can also be installed in the following treadmills:
NTL190070, NTL190071, NTL190072, NTL190073, NTL190074 - NORDICTRACK ELITE 7500 TREADMILL

Tuesday, 17 October 2017

Replacing the thermal protection from Icon and Mega Motor treadmill motors

Step 1: Make a slight lever on the mega motor or icon fan to disconnect the fan, which is usually pressed on the axis of these motors. If you see a screw in the center of the fan, you need to unscrew it before leveraging. If you need to reuse the fan, be careful not to do too much pressure or it’ll break.

Step 2: Unscrew the screws that hold the plastic frame

Step 3: Unscrew the nuts (or screws)

Step 4: Remove the blue thermocouple (thermal protection). These are two blue or green cables connected to a metal plate
Step 5: The plate has been removed

Step 6: Fit the isolated thermocouple onto the new engine. Because of the current passing in the metal plate, it should be secured with isolating tape to the engine chassis (otherwise, it will leap current) and outward (to avoid risks if you accidentally touch it).
Step 7: If you need to reuse the old engine flywheel, separate the outer frame, which will withstand a slight resistance to magnets.
Step 8: Holding the engine securely, it is now possible to unscrew the flywheel.
The flywheel is released by leverage in a favorable direction with respect to the motor rotation, so generally the pulley slides clockwise (opposite to the movement that is made to unscrew a screw).

Sunday, 15 October 2017

Problems with the display of the treadmill

Most treadmills have very different displays from each other. There are very simple displays that show speed, time, calories and distance. Some include heart rate with handpulse, body weight functions, chest belt pulse or ear lobe sensors.
We try here to show how you can fix some of the most common problems.
Power Problems
Some displays are powered by batteries. When the batteries are almost discharged, the display will show us, and we must replace them. If you wait too long the display will be off. There are other displays that work with the current of the treadmill. These usually have a built-in transformer with an output voltage between 6 and 12 volts. Sometimes this type of the displays does not work well. A cable that brings power to the display can be pulled or detached. Sometimes the transformer itself needs to be replaced. It is usually located in the motor housing on board of the motor controller or aside.
Problems with the treadmill keyboard
Sometimes the display buttons stop working suddenly. Sometimes this means that their internal contacts are to be cleaned because they have some dirty which prevents the electrical contact. For cleaning, proceed as follows: disassemble the dashboard very carefully over a table covered with a white cloth, remove the screws carefully remembering their positioning. Remove the keyboard and clean the contacts with alcohol to clean the electronic contacts. Be very careful in order not to damage them. Reassemble carefully. In some cases, the circuit breaks in membrane keyboards, often used on professional treadmills. In this case a specialized laboratory will have to proceed to reconstructing the circuit. Replacing the original membrane keyboards with micro-buttons will provide an aesthetic result that is identical to the original and a significantly superior durability. 


Friday, 13 October 2017

Modify the wiring of Weslo, Proform, Nordick Track, Icon, Domyos treadmills to remove thermal protection

In all cases where you want to remove the thermal protection from a treadmill fitted with it, follow the following electrical diagram.
This may be necessary, for example, to replace the engine with a model that does not have thermal protection. Thermal protectors are installed by some manufacturers on motors for domestic use, such as increased safety, although they come into operation in very few cases. Whenever possible, reuse old thermal protection.

Thursday, 12 October 2017

Treadmill Parts against malaria

With our donation it will be possible to buy about 80 networks of protection for Malaria (LLINs), the association is renowned for a very high accountability of the results which means that the donated money is really used for social programs. For all the information visit the website: https://www.againstmalaria.com/

Wednesday, 11 October 2017

A low friction belt (low coefficient of friction) reduces the energy consumption of the treadmill up to 75%

Below we show some measurements of the current energy consumption I did after attaching a new low friction belt recently provided for a Life Fitness T9i treadmill at the gym.
For this test, I measured the current "before" and "after" by using an RMS (AC) amperometer on the treadmill. The results below are what I got at 7km/h steady (normal pace).
For greater clarity, the terms "unloaded" and "loaded" below simply mean if there was someone or not on the treadmill when the measurement was taken.
Finally, for true engineers out there, the user's weight is 91kgs (200 lbs) and the treadmills are all European, spec. 220V AC 50Hz.
Before replacing the belt and deck:
1.3 amps unloaded at normal pace
2.7 amps loaded at normal pace
The original belt and deck were in good condition and well lubricated, the belt did not really require replacement but we wanted to do a test.
After mounting new (and lubricated) belt and deck:
1.3amps unloaded at normal pace
2.1amps loaded at a normal pace
The base current measured here in the "first" state was quite favorable (low) and would not justify itself replacing belt and deck.
This reflects the high standard in which we keep the gym equipment entrusted to our assistance. By comparison, in my experience, I measured the current absorption up to 6A or 8A loaded in structures where there was little or no maintenance of treadmills. In these situations, a low-friction belt and a preventive maintenance routine could reduce energy consumption by 75%, a reduction that will allow considerable bill savings on the exercise cost of the treadmill.
I can conclude that, in any case, using a new low friction treadmill belt, even if the original belt is still in good condition, provides a significant and measurable reduction in current absorption. Even under these rather favorable conditions, I was able to measure - 0.6A (-23%) current after the new deck and belt had been mounted.
The obvious saving in management costs, in my opinion, easily justifies the replacement of the belt. Not only does it reduce electricity consumption but it will also have a long-term positive effect on avoiding the replacement of expensive components such as the board and (on domestic models) the engine; the lower power consumption means that these elements will work better and for a long time to maintain high performance while remaining with a suitable load for their design parameters (so without stresses that would lead to premature failure!).
Buy low friction treadmill tapes, lubricants and boards in our online store:

Monday, 9 October 2017

J550 Tunturi Treadmill Repair - Replacing the drive belt and the belt

Replace the drive belt
1.) Disconnect the treadmill from power, then lift the treadmill on one side, keeping the left side where the drive belt is located lifted up.
2.) Unscrew the cap at the end of the front roller by removing the three screws. The cap opens in two sections.
3.) Remove the engine cover by removing seven screws.
4.) Unscrew the four screws holding the motor mount, then loosen the tensioning bolt so that the motor and the engine bracket can be moved significantly to the front of the treadmill and the drive belt can be removed.
5.) Remove the screw from the front roller shaft so that the front roller can slide out of the frame.
6.) Loosen the two bolts in the back of the treadmill until the left side of the roller can be removed from the treadmill's frame, so the old belt will come off and the new one may be installed.
7.) Reverse the procedure once the new drive belt is positioned.
If the belt is tightened properly you should be able to rotate it by about 90 ° by hand. If you can’t rotate, it means that it is too tight, and that’s not good for the motor and for the belts itself. If it is too loose, it will slip on the roller pulley.
Replace the running belt
1.) In addition to steps 1 through 6, remove the two caps from the end of the rear roller.
2.) Remove the two bolts from the rear roller and remove the roller by sliding it out underneath the belt.
3.) Remove the rear cap from the left side and slide the footrest forward and out of the tap. To ease the operation loosen the nuts located at the bottom of the deck.
4.) Remove the screws that secure the deck to the frame using rubber bearings.
5.) Remove the old belt from one side and insert the new belt by sliding it.
6.) Reverse the procedure, including all the steps in the transmission belt section.
Once everything is fitted, tighten the rear roller bolts following the instructions in this blog for calibrating, centering, and tensioning the belt.